A structured jacket is the piece that makes everything underneath look considered. It is also the hardest thing to buy well, because most of what determines whether a jacket works is invisible on a screen.

This is a guide to the three in our range, and to what you should be looking at generally.

What structure actually means

Structure is the jacket holding a shape that is not your shape. A shoulder that stays where it was cut. A body that falls straight rather than following your frame.

It comes from three things: fabric weight, internal construction, and the shoulder. A heavy fabric will hold a line on its own. A lighter one needs help from the inside.

The quick test on any jacket: hold it by the shoulders and let it hang. If it keeps its shape, it has structure. If it collapses, it is a shirt with ambitions.

Indigo: the minimalist jacket that covers everything

The darkest and most formal of the three. Indigo does the work a navy blazer does, but without the corporate register.

It goes over almost anything and reads as deliberate rather than dressy. If you want one jacket that covers work, dinner and travel, this is the one — available with matching pants and as a longer coat.

Graphite: the second jacket that doesn't duplicate the first

Grey is the most useful colour in a wardrobe and the least discussed. It sits between black and neutral, so it works with both.

Graphite is the choice if you already own something dark and want a second jacket that does not duplicate it. Also available with matching pants, which gives you a full suit option without the suit.

Sandstone: the seasonal statement

The lightest and the most seasonal. Warmer weather, lighter layers, and outfits built around neutrals rather than contrast.

Sandstone is harder to wear than the other two, which is exactly why it is worth having. It changes what the rest of the wardrobe looks like rather than blending into it. Pair it with the matching pants for a full light-toned set.

Terrene: the fourth in the family

Worth mentioning alongside them. Same construction approach, different weight and finish. Explore the Terrene jacket and the Terrene coat.

How to choose between them

Ask what you already own.

• Nothing structured? Start with Indigo. It is the most versatile and the least likely to sit unworn.
• Own something dark? Take Graphite. It gives you a second option that does not compete.
• Own both and dress mostly in neutrals? Sandstone will do more for your wardrobe than a third dark jacket.

On the material

These are made from reworked material in our Cairo hub, which introduces small variations between pieces. Each upcycled gabardine jacket has to be assessed panel by panel before it is cut — structured tailoring from reclaimed fabric is considerably harder than structured tailoring from a roll.

That is the trade. Slight variation, in exchange for a sustainable jacket whose material had a life before you got it.

Frequently asked questions

What makes a jacket "structured"?

Structure comes from fabric weight, internal construction and the shoulder. The quick test: hold the jacket by the shoulders and let it hang — if it keeps its shape, it has structure.

Is a minimalist jacket versatile?

Yes — a minimalist jacket in a solid, neutral colour is the most versatile layer you can own. Indigo covers work, dinner and travel; Graphite fills the gap if you already own something dark.

What is an upcycled gabardine jacket?

A structured jacket cut from reclaimed, reworked fabric instead of virgin material. Each panel comes from fabric that had a previous life, which is why no two pieces are perfectly identical.

Structured vs. unstructured — which should I buy first?

Structured. An unstructured jacket follows your frame; a structured one adds shape to everything you wear under it. If you own nothing tailored, start with a structured sustainable jacket in a dark neutral.